I will only show a preview of what is coming in the next delivery. I have been touring around our beloved Argentinian North West Region, and here you will find a few tips (I will write only a little, not to tire you as of now) of “Little big things you cannot afford not to do”, and the road between Tilcara and Humahuaca, with fundamental “Coquero” tips of where to stop in between.
A definitive “heels” experience at The Suites Urbanica, far away from the street noise.
The ambiance throughout the hotel includes dim lighting, wall mural art, American blinds (that I personally adore), wood, leather; and everything is top notch.
The bartenders are especially cool and knowledgeable! A perfect combination. On top of that, they have an incredible hand for what one is looking for: cocktails of course!
The menu was designed by the super famous Inés De Los Santos, and nothing at all is missing. My choice was a Gimlet: gin-based, lime juice and sweet syrup, plus a bunch of secret ingredients I imagine Inés and the house bartenders can only know.
Either before or after your cocktail you can walk over for a dinner at Orilla. This small restaurant by chef Fernando Trocca has got a lot of things to know and enjoy: the menu is divided into small, medium and large dishes, and amongst those variables, the prices are the same. This is a terrific tip, and it allows you to try and taste as much as you can.
The environment is chic but unpretentious, in my words I would call it “casual chic”. The main protagonist is undoubtedly the incredible twelve-meter mural wall art, painted by the artist duo of Raymundo Cohen and Claudia Mazzuchelli. Green is predominant, playing with every plant you find in the hotel.
My choice in the menu: advised by Trocca himself, I tried to taste as much as I could, and I am still due coming back to go through the whole menu! I went from small meatballs with tomato and parmesan cheese; medium burrata cheese with cauliflower and pangrattato; to big black rice with bacon, chipirones and steer ribs with barbecue. It was all scoring 10! You can see I am a good eater! All of this in company of an excellent Cabernet – Merlot wine from Rutini winery.
An experience in the heart of Palermo that will surprise you, as it did me: no less than the Asado & Friends Experience!
Frank is an American that met his Argentinean wife in Chicago and came together to settle in Buenos Aires.
The proposed experience is very complete: they open their old Palermo house doors to you; this being built in 1890 and formerly a baker shop. This is an amazing House, like a huge warehouse with vintage touches and modern design. Filled with plants and murals.
As this wasn’t enough, and the place is already pointing out, they have a big yard with trees, proper lighting, a big grill ready for a huge Asado and a clay oven, always on to add another warmth touch to the environment.
First things first: when you arrive to this house, the owners welcome you and after a small tour to appreciate all this I’m telling you about (sorry for the spoilers), you all head to the butcher shop to buy the meat cuts you will later on eat and taste.
This Experience could be either in their house, or one of their neighbors’, since they kindly joined to offer their houses as well.
From that point on, a surprising Graffitti tour through Palermo neighborhood is up: Frank gives you the most incredible tips and information, and also shows you the contrast to what those places used to look like, before this area exploded in the touristic boom.
You will also be taken for a walk in the Pasaje Borges, where naturally, a Borges graffiti is located, and the amazing wall art with the green background that you can see the ALCHEMY DMC Team standing in front of, this team of – tonight – tourist that shared all together this amazing fulfilling night!
After the Graffiti walk, it is time to head back to Frank’s place: We all participate in different stages of the Asado process, from Chimichurri mixing, deluxe salad preparing (spinach, mango and caramelized pecan nuts), to aiding with the grill fire starting (with an original way of doing it, very Argentinian: no gas involved). Simply said: it was a whole new way of doing things we thought we already knew how!
As the Argentinian tradition demands (and Frank being more Argentinian than some locals), it is time to wait for the Asado to be ready while eating a proper “picada” (cold cuts, cheese, olives and other bites), with a good wine and some Fernet as well (as you can see, hunger isn’t involved in the evening at all).
It is finally Asado time!! Calling it impressive would be under doing it: nothing is missing here, chorizos, morcillas (blood sausage), mollejas (gizzard), pork “matambrito” and, naturally… top notch red meat cuts! They will take the time to patiently take note of the cooking point everyone would like to have them. As we have a saying in Argentina: “Round of applause for the “Asador” (grill man)” who was beyond a genius!
It is dessert time: get ready for more surprises… since the idea here is to taste the typical traditional food we have, but in original different ways than what we are used to… Frank prepared some “burnt” mate for us. This can only be done after the grill is on, because he adds a sugared hot coal, forming some kind of caramel to the mate. Only after this, you proceed to taste it, with an intense sweet and smoked flavor worth trying! Dessert: another classic remixed! The famous “vigilante” (cheese and sliced jam – normally sweet potato or quince jam), with a touch of sea salt! This will start being used in my house as of right now.
For those not too keen on reading, let me make this easy for you and show you this San Telmo based hidden pearl of a restaurant (and Adventure cooking, by definition) in images.
I am well aware that when visiting Argentina, you are looking forward to some wine: and you are right to do so! But we are more and more into cocktailing, bars and speakeasies are rising in numbers, so here is a tip to have an option from when you are looking for a drink variation, especially if you are into gin: this is the spot for you.
In my “Coquera Guide” I am giving it 3 Heels (VERY GOOD), and here are my reasons:
Here you’ll find every gin option you could imagine, to enjoy excellent cocktails: the different thing about this place, is they mix it themselves with all sorts of herbs and aromatic species.
Ambiance and lighting (fundamentals, in my book), are very good and get you in the mood without going too over the top.
The menu has some great detail and design, but despite this, they are still very attentive and try to assist you with all the patience in the world in explaining every single drink they prepare to provide some guidance, since the offer is quite wide.
The pricing is very reasonable despite being located in Palermo (a must area to visit during the day and the night), but it is outside the traditional tourist circuit.
Super detail: every cocktail on the menu describes levels of citric taste and freshness, so if you have a style in mind, the choosing is very easy. And just because “when the belly is full, the heart is happy” (Argentinian popular saying), you also have lots of options to choose from to eat and stay in. They are well aware of the “no drink on an empty stomach” maxim.
BUENOS AIRES HAS ITS NEW “PASEO DEL BAJO” WALK, AND I WOULD LIKE TO INTRODUCE YOU TO IT (DON’T WORRY, NO SPOILERS INVOLVED SO YOU DON’T MISS SURPRISE EFFECT).
I chose a beautiful sun-shinning day to walk around this area, starting my walk from Puerto Madero (top chic area you simply cannot miss). I completed the whole walk and loved it, one of the best things was the stairs that lead to the view I’m about to share with you!
Don’t tell me it doesn’t look like you’ve just arrived at a European city! There’s a reason why we are called the most “European” city of South America.
As soon as you get to the stairs, these streetlights shine and the views I see, in a distracted way, Monday to Friday gained a new tourist perspective yesterday, which I very much enjoyed.
In the surroundings, several emblematic buildings:
The Casa Rosada (“pink house”) – classic view is from Plaza de Mayo, but you can now admire it from both different angles – no less than our government building.
The former Post Office building – currently the Kirchner Cultural Center “CCK”. Taking note of the flowers and nature appreciated from this angle. It is also my advice to tour this building from the inside and eat in the 9th floor restaurant conveniently called Piso 9. To reach this square and get the shocking views, walk through the classic Puente de la Mujer (Women Bridge), and from right there you can also see the Fragata Sarmiento (a ship you could also tour from the inside).
